Nubian Weddings

Last Saturday and yesterday I went to Nubian weddings. Last weekend we only stayed for a short while but the structure was about the same for both ceremonies. A few men beat hand drums and a woman sings traditional songs. To start the dancing the women start a line swaying their hips and waving handkerchiefs at the crowd sitting. The crowd waves back and this continues for 15 minutes or so. Then the women dance together until the men begin to form a line. The woman dance is basically moving you feet and hips in a way that sways your dress as much as possible (pretty sweet). The men do some serious step touches. Eventually the male and female lines face each other and men approach woman they want to dance with, dance for 15 seconds and then sway back into the line. Sometimes, both lines move forward and weave through each other, then turn around and face each other again.

The traditional garb is a long metallic skirt underneath a short silky dress underneath a long piece of shear fabric that wraps around your body and over your shoulders/head. Its the ultimate cross of being African and a southern bell.

This weekend, I had henna applied before the wedding on my hands, forearms, and feet (see attached). We were at the wedding from 6 until midnight and dancing a lot! I befriended some kids and we danced and danced. I also danced in the male/female line for a long time and had lots of fun! After the wedding, I spent the night in Kibera with Tina, Cantar’s sister. I was given a long nightgown like in the 50s (very cool) and slept with Quinn (Tina’s baby) on one side and Tina on the other.

I am still learning more and more swahili, and greeting people at the wedding using it. I still heard ‘mzungu!mzungu!’ when I walked to the wedding, but one lady I was with said, “they are fools, tonight you are not a mzungu, you are a nubian!” :) Nubians often greet their elders by moving the elder’s hand to their forehead, and then chin. I, of course, didn’t know this, so when I greeted one of the elders she stopped me, laughed and told someone to tell me when to do. I fuddled, and hit my chin first then my nose area. Ha. Anyway I’ve got the hang of it now!

Weddings usually last two-three days and consist of dancing and eating. Brides are not allowed to attend any of the celebration, and the bride’s brother says her vows for her during the ceremony. However, after the wedding, an elder in the community goes to the house and cooks for her and her husband for seven days.

It was a really fun cultural adventure.

Much love!

alisa