Goodbyes and coming home

Leaving Kenya was bittersweet. My last day with the girls we had a big dance party (cake included)! We dancing to all their favorite songs, took pictures and talked about first impressions. The end of the day was a bunch of group hugs.... there would be one group hug, then I'd take a couple steps and there would be another group hug etc. It was fun, but sad to say goodbye.

At the office goodbyes were not allowed, just see you laters. Hopefully some of the staff will visit the states soon and I will see them again.

My hardest goodbye was to one of my favorite girls (Khadija). I went to her school the day I was leaving and took my friend Caro with me to translate. I told her I was leaving, but that I would miss her and we could write to each other. I also told her to tell me if she needed anything and I would do my best to help her. I hugged her again, and walked away with Caro. I was immediately in tears because in reality I will probably never see her again. As Caro and I went separate ways, Khadija called my name. I turned around and went back to hug her one more time. She saw my face reddened by crying, and tears rolled down her cheeks.

I have been wanting to come home for so long, but it is as bazaar as seeing Africa for the first time. On the plane, I got to the point I couldn't even predict which meal would be next. I would be finishing wine from dinner and down the aisle would come... breakfast? In a blur of 20 minute sleep cycles, movies, airplane food and time being turned upside down the 24 hours of traveling will make you delirious. When we arrived in London for our first layover, I teared up seeing flashy cars to be won, Prada, Giavanchy, and chandeliers. How baazar to go from Nairobi to London. All I could think was how Khadija would never see this, nor could I ever explain it to her.

I am now home and nearly settled in my new house in Carrboro, NC. I have been meeting up with old friends, unpacking, washing, and eating lots of grits :) I walked by my neighbor who was gardening a few days ago and said 'good morning'. She looked up grinning and greeted me with the sweet southern love that I have missed so dearly in Kenya. I am still trying to adjust to the culture; I feel edgy and nervous and need some time to realize that I can let me guard down a bit. School starts next week, but in the meanwhile I am working with Transfer student orientation and mingling with new transfers (one of my all time favorite things to do). I am having meetings and running around in the hustle bustle of back to school at chapel hill, which I love. It is good to be home.

It has been an incredible experience that I am grateful for, however I felt pushed and challenged in a way I haven't been before. I think I have experienced every emotion under the sun, and it'll be a long while before I fully understand the impact they have made on me. While I was enlightened and impassioned in Kenya, I was also confused, enraged, and broken. Now its a matter of rebuilding: picking up the fragmented pieces and figuring out how to make myself new again.


Thank you for your comments, feedback, support and love.

all of me-

alisa

Masai Mara Safari

Yaniv, Blair, Pascale and I went to Masai Mara for three days last week. On our way into the park, Masai women came to the car and held out braclets and necklaces through the windows trying to get us to buy them. They would not stop no matter hw many times we said no! When one women would lower the price, the other would too but we kept saying "No, really, we don't want to buy anything!" We soon arrived at Ngama Tented camps, which were not tents at all... but elaborate cabins disguised as tents. We ate a late lunch and went out for a evening game drive. We saw to snuggly male lions sleeping in the grass, a leopard dangling in a tree, gorgeous landscapes, elephants, zebra, gazelle, wildebeests, water buffalo, warthogs, and more. We had nice meals and deep sleep...other than the hyenas howling outside our room! The next day we saw more wilderness and animals including a cheetah perched on top of a mount of dirt looking for prey! It was a really fun trip and was a beautiful side of Kenya we hadn't seen.

VM and more Binti

So I started the vagina monlogues project with the girls. I had them sit and write a story about what is like to be a woman in Africa. They were told to pick an aspect of feminity and write a story that happened to them or someone they know. The stories were really good and I got topics on abortion, teenage pregnancy, puberty, rape, theft, corruption, gender roles and more. The next few times we met I chose the stories which I felt were well written and displayed a personal story about African feminity. Then I read the stories aloud, and after each one we started a discussion on what the story was talking about, what would you do if you were the person in the story, how can we address this issue, how can you protect yourself etc. The girls are so bright and aware of the world that sourronds them and had great input and strong opinions about their stories. While these topics are talked about regularly, I think it is really crucial for them to hear each others stories and know how common these experiences are for women, no matter how taboo. I hope I got them to think about how much they have experienced as a group and how important it is to support and relate to each other.

We have also continued improv dance lessons and I have been trying to teach them to share weight. We do small excerises experimenting with leaning on each other and moving your center of gravity with another person. They did well, but the biggest struggle is laughter. Those girls could laugh from dawn until dusk, no matter what they do. It's hard for me to force them to focus because I am so glad they are having fun.

We come home a week from tomorrow! We are trying to pack in boxing, work, nice dinners, shopping, goodbyes, and packing into our last 9 days. I am sad to be leaving, but really miss home too.

alisa

My favorite time of day

...is when nursery school lets out (around 4). Today I was walking home and a group of kids (maybe age 3 or 4) all in matching green plaid uniforms saw me walking behind them. They stopped, turned and yelled out a long "HOOOOOW ARRRRRRE YOUUUUUU?" And then of course immediately began chanting it. They all ran full speed at me, I crouched down and squeezed two giant arms fulls of children. When I stood up, they grabbed my hands/me/each other and I walked with them down the street. I got some funny looks being one mzungu with about eight children draped on my arms. Some of the children broke off to walk home, and I ended up with one child on either side. I actually feel safer walking around with african children than anyone else. No one seems to mess with them, and usually leave me alone when I walk with them (although I cannot remember one day that I haven't been verbally harassed walking between home and work). And it felt good to accompany children home, under the pretense that maybe I am protecting them. We walked a good ways before I split off to go through the market to go home. Turned to wave goodbye only to realize they were turning around and going back the way we had came!!! I though I was walking them home but they were actually walking me.

alisa

Lake Naivasha and Hell's Gate

Blair, Pascale and I decided to get out of town for a couple days and we went to Lake Naivasha, which is about an hour and a half bus ride from Nairobi. What a trip! We arrived at Fisherman's Camp, which is a campsite right on the lake with a few bandas (a small hut with basic accommodation) and tents to rent. We rented a banda, went out on the dock to see the lake, and then went to the on-site restaurant/bar. We had dinner and watched the sun go down. We met some foreigners, and chatted with drinking coffee out on the patio. Velvet monkeys danced among the woven tree branches that swayed with their weight. There were many birds, which were distinguishable mostly by sound. Their calls were very unique, many sounded more like instruments than animals. Piano keys, trumpets, flutes... it was soothing to experience silence and cacophony at the same time. In the lawn, you could see hippos grazing that had come ashore under the protection of night fall. The noise they make is exotic; somewhere between a cow's moo, fog horn, and growling stomach.

The next day we went to Hell's Gate National Park for a day in the great outdoors. We got an awesome guide, Marcus, and rented bikes to ride through the park. I miss my pretty white swiss villager with baskets and a bell, and the rickety old mountain bike took some getting used to! But it was invigorating to be on a bicycle next to zebras, giraffes, gazelle, and huge rock cliffs. The scenery was gorgeous and sculpted by centuries of volcanic activity. The sand glittered with black pieces of obsidian (volcanic rock). After 8kms biking, we stopped for a picnic lunch at the top of the gorge. While we sat, a huge baboon (seriously weighted as much as I do) sauntered up to our picnic table. Our guide chased it away (apparently they are dangerous) but it approached us like we were just animals, not threatening to him in the least. Of course that is true, and all I could get out was "Stick... BABOON ... MARCUS ...STICK!"

We walked into the gorge and found ourselves between two rock faces over 60 feet high. The gorge was mostly unaltered by humans, and in some parts we had to shimmy up logs, leap, climb and contort to get through it. We had a blast. At one point where the hot springs had water running down the rocks there was a little shower of spring water. We stripped down and showered in the spring, which was the perfect temperature. Apparently the sulfur in the spring is really good for you, and we all felt a little bit younger :)

Next we climbed to the view point, which overlooked the whole gorge. And to be cheesy, it was gorge-ous. We sat there to take it all in, and then walked back to our bikes. It was a full days exercise, but felt great and was breath-taking. We got home, had dinner and a beer and fell asleep with ease.

The next morning I woke up early to see the sunrise on the lake. I jumped the electric fence (making sure there were no hippos first) and sat out on the dock with some local fisherman. The sky and water was pink and purple from the glow of the sun behind the mountains. There were flocks of pelicans costing above the water as though they were ice-skating and the water was frozen. I could hear the birds, monkeys, and hippos and got a sliver of solitude for the first time since I have been in Africa. Being on the water is so cleansing for me, and after our trip I truly felt invigorated. After spending two months battling sexism, poverty, smog, harassment, and choking back natural anger and frustration in Nairobi, this peace was priceless.

all my love,

alisa

walking into Kibera

I wanted to record my morning walk to work...

Usually after a quick cup of coffee, I walk down into Toi market. I pass along it's side, with vendors unloading their bags of goods to sell for the day. The further into the market you go, the fewer clothes and shoes and more vegetables and grains. Carefully avoiding puddles, rotting fruit, and garbage I walk through a small alley lined with tailors, barber shops and coal salespeople. The coal guys always say hello in a silly voice; I can't tell if he is making fun of us or is just really silly. Next is the large lady sitting in a big pile of greens, sorting and stacking. Then three tables with ladies selling dried minnows, with eyes still intact. You wouldn't have to see them to know they are their because the fishy smell is precise and poignant. Then are the few men who are sitting drinking tea who always ask us if I want to sit with them and have breakfast. I pass more shops, which open up to Kibera drive. After carefully crossing the road with raging matatus and buses, I walk up the hill past shoe salespeople, nic-nacks, and necessities. At the corner there is a music shop that blares load music (usually early 90s R&B) which always perks me up. I walk into Olympic, and the street is bustling with people preparing for the day. Kids are walking to school, shops opening, and people rebuilding structures with shiny new sheet metal. I arrive at the office, slap our security guard's (who we call 'soldier') hand, check on the chameleons that Blair saved which now live in our compound, and start the day.

July 4th party and girls soccer

Holy moly. The last couple days have been wild.

Happy independence day, America! On the fourth of July we went to a celebration at the home of Micheal Ranneberger, who is the US ambassador to Kenya (yes the same one we met a couple posts back). There were over 2,000 people at this invite only event out on his huge back yard. Things to note include the life size American flag made entirely of cupcakes, Raila, Kalonzo, Obama's Grandmother, Obama's sister, and free wine. Disclaimer: those things do not necessarily all rank equally :) It was so cool!!!!!!! I was shocked to see Raila in person (because I have only see posters of him everywhere) but was most smitten with Obama's relatives. Salim knows Obama's sister, so whe chatted with her and then she introduced us to his grandmother. In vernacular language she said, "Mama, these are some of Barack's friends." I have never felt so awesome!!!!!! I got to hug Obama's sister and take photos with her and his grandmother. It was very clear that awesome-ness runs in the Obama family. They all emit a glowing energy.

We also talked to David Price, Jim Cooper, Mel Watt and other congressional folks, their military escorts, and spouses. David Price was particularly impressive; he was a wonderful networker (introduced us to at least 6 people), has a good head on his shoulders, and was passionate about CFK. His wife Lisa was also very cool to talk to and super down-to-earth. After the party, they all came down to CFK to here more about what we do and then we took a walk through Kibera to see our clinics. About half way into the walk it started pouring rain. It was quite an adventure to tour a big group of wazungus around a muddy, flooded Kibera. We laughed, and everyone was a good sport, which was impressive for folks who were dressed to a T trudging through mud. We got back to CFK and everyone was soaked. I, brilliantly, waiting until this point to get pictures with them and have some great shots of me with important congress folks; both of us soppy wet. They described their trip to Kibera as unforgettable. I hope that's the case.

Yesterday we hosted a soccer tournament for girls from the informal school sector in Kibera. These are schools who are not recognized by the government and have little to no resources for students and also don't have soccer games like the formal schools do (soccer is hugely popular). There were hundreds of kids there playing soccer, listening to forums about sexual health, getting VCT counseling, and having dance-offs. It was a successful day; everyone had a lot of fun.

Also, all week I have been hanging out with Dr. Jennifer Coffman, who is on the board of directors fro CFK and is a professor at James Madison University. She is a cultural anthropologist, brilliant professor, loving mother, avid environmentalist, and fantastic story teller (I could go on and on). It has been such a pleasure to get to know her, hear about her work and passions. You know how sometimes you just hit it off with people that you hardly know but feel instantly attuned to? Ya, Jennifer is one of those people :)




On a different note; my house mate (NOT BLAIR, whom I am traveling with) went downtown last night to a few bars. When getting ready to leave, someone on the street ran past her, snatching her bag from her shoulder. The street was crowded and well lit, and the many people who saw it ran after him and beat him until he was lying in a pool of blood. She came home horrified from witnessing such an event, and it has and will continue to take a great deal of energy to convince her that it is not her fault. The sense of mob justice is prevalent here, and terrifying. While we can talk all day long about where she was, how she carried her bag, who was with her, what time it was and so on, for me it comes down the troubling process of acclimation. As a white person, no matter how acclimated to Kenya you may become, Kenya is not acclimated to you. After being somewhere for a certain amount of time you naturally become more comfortable and let you guard down. However, we stick out, are stereotyped and targeted for crime. I feel very strongly about not blaming the victim in any circumstance and instead looking at sources of crime, namely poverty, and putting energy in addressing them. Regardless, it is unnerving when it happens so close to home and reminds me that in fact I am farther from home than I have ever been.

all of me,

alisa

Tae boxing, GoDown Art center, and Painting

Something that I have miraculously forgotten to mention is that Blair and I are going to tae boxing at a little gym near our house. It's pretty hilarious and after about 10 mins of the warm up we are soaked in sweat and can't breathe. It feels good. So we feel like badasses and intimidate muggers with our seriously sweet kicking and punching skillz :)

Saturday I went to the GoDown Arts Center with the Binti girls. They performed a few dances and a poem followed by other local performers. Afterward we walked around the gallery. The theme of the event was Life as a Ghetto Girl. Their were blown up photos of scenes from the Nairobi slums, many of which I see everyday. There were also abstract oil paintings which were fabulous. It was capturing to see devastation expressed intricately through art. And really, when you can see it's beauty, it's really not devastation at all.

Yesterday I painted the outside of the Binti Center with a few of the girls. We had fun, made a mess, and got covered in paint :)

alisa

Things is Africa that make me laugh

In no particular order---- :)

1. The guy at Java that 'cleans' the plants (literally wipes the leaves with a cloth)
2. Three wheeled cars.
3. Sales people that try to sell things for 8x times the price and think we won't notice
4. Umi
5. The fact that Nakumatt is all out of soup. Every kind. Just plain out of stock. Huh?
6. The stray kitty that sneaks into our house.
7. The fact we petted and cheetah and didn't die.
8. Everyone being terrified (like run away screaming) of chameleons.
9. Bus rides feeling like the rickety wooden roller coasters from the bad theme parks.
10. Blaring early 90's R and B (it's everywhere)
11. Salim (he sure is sassy)
12. Matatus. Especially the hot pink one.
13. Women that somehow carry something on their head, back, and in both arms and still manage to walk faster than me.
14. People call flat tires 'punctures'. It sounds so sophisticated :)
15. Kids like having their picture taken so much that they jump in front of the camera every chance they get.
16. The guy I saw today walking with a box of baby chickens (all chirping) on his head.
17. The fact that in order to get in or out of the bathroom at Java you have to practically straddle the toilet. Serious design error.
18. Prestige Plaza plays the same 5 songs over and over and over and over.
19. When we fall through the kitchen chairs in our house (For some reason Jane has not screwed the seat to the frame yet). It's more funny when someone else does it, it hurts pretty badly when it happens to you:)
20. When people water the dirt. (Maybe it prevents dust?) Anyway it looks really funny when someone has a hose and is spraying it on a bunch of dirt.

Improv, National Park and Ambassador

So Sunday I had the first improv dance lesson with the girls. We did a flocking exercise which is when you move/dance around a room and pay attention to everyone around you. Then collectively without talking you decided to stop and look at someone. After any period of time, you decided when to move again as a group. The first two are looks, then a touch, then a weight share. It was difficult at first to get the girls to stop giggling and also to get folks to participate (many were clinging to the walls). I danced with them at first, but eveyone ended up copying what I did and looking to me for when to stop. So I stepped out and let them lead themselves. I was worried at first, because it just didn't seem to be working, some girls would stop, but others weren't paying attention and kept dancing. We decided to stop for the day, but then Carol came in and wanted to see. So I let the girls go one more time, and it worked! Hah I was so excited and it's kinda amazing to watch it when it works ( I have only ever danced it). Afterward I asked the girls what was hard, and what made the last time work better than the others. It's still a work in progress, but I am excited to see their skills develop.

Monday Blair, Yaniv, Cantar, Zubeda, Umi and I went to Nairobi National Park. We first went into the animal orphanage and saw many of the animals upclose. We were even allowed in the cheetah exhibit and got to pet a cheetah! (Let me tell you, I was terrified because all I have seen is national-geographic-style-killing-a-rhino-kinda-cheetahs). Umi (who is three) was super brave and wanted to come in the exhibit with us and she clung on for dear life while I petted a cat 3 times her size. I was impressed. Eventually (after some cost negotiation and a mini tantrum over a chocolate bar by Umi) we got into the park. We drove around for several hours and saw zebras, giraffes, antelope, wildbeests, waterbuffalo, and some unidentified others. We had a great time.

Yesterday Yaniv and I went to an open house at the US embassy to meet the US ambassador to Kenya. He was pretty cool, but a politician through and through. It was interesting to hear what the Kenyans were asking/talking about and what the ambassador thought about Kenya, Zimbabwe's current situation (and US non-intervention), Kibera etc.

Today we met with a safari guide to hopefully go to Masai Mara in late July to see the Great Migration, the Mara, Masai villages and more. It'll cost us, but we have been told it is totally worth is and something you can't leave Kenya without doing.

Because today is a Thurday, we have dinner at cantar's house! Chapti and Ndengu is on the menu. We are looking forward to it :)

much love,

alisa

Nubian Weddings

Last Saturday and yesterday I went to Nubian weddings. Last weekend we only stayed for a short while but the structure was about the same for both ceremonies. A few men beat hand drums and a woman sings traditional songs. To start the dancing the women start a line swaying their hips and waving handkerchiefs at the crowd sitting. The crowd waves back and this continues for 15 minutes or so. Then the women dance together until the men begin to form a line. The woman dance is basically moving you feet and hips in a way that sways your dress as much as possible (pretty sweet). The men do some serious step touches. Eventually the male and female lines face each other and men approach woman they want to dance with, dance for 15 seconds and then sway back into the line. Sometimes, both lines move forward and weave through each other, then turn around and face each other again.

The traditional garb is a long metallic skirt underneath a short silky dress underneath a long piece of shear fabric that wraps around your body and over your shoulders/head. Its the ultimate cross of being African and a southern bell.

This weekend, I had henna applied before the wedding on my hands, forearms, and feet (see attached). We were at the wedding from 6 until midnight and dancing a lot! I befriended some kids and we danced and danced. I also danced in the male/female line for a long time and had lots of fun! After the wedding, I spent the night in Kibera with Tina, Cantar’s sister. I was given a long nightgown like in the 50s (very cool) and slept with Quinn (Tina’s baby) on one side and Tina on the other.

I am still learning more and more swahili, and greeting people at the wedding using it. I still heard ‘mzungu!mzungu!’ when I walked to the wedding, but one lady I was with said, “they are fools, tonight you are not a mzungu, you are a nubian!” :) Nubians often greet their elders by moving the elder’s hand to their forehead, and then chin. I, of course, didn’t know this, so when I greeted one of the elders she stopped me, laughed and told someone to tell me when to do. I fuddled, and hit my chin first then my nose area. Ha. Anyway I’ve got the hang of it now!

Weddings usually last two-three days and consist of dancing and eating. Brides are not allowed to attend any of the celebration, and the bride’s brother says her vows for her during the ceremony. However, after the wedding, an elder in the community goes to the house and cooks for her and her husband for seven days.

It was a really fun cultural adventure.

Much love!

alisa

Giraffe center

We went to the giraffe center and got to get up close and personal with the most gentle, sweet animals I have met in a while! The place was a breeding sanctuary for giraffes and was on a large plot of land with a hug mansion where you can rent a room (for a price of course). The giraffes lean in the window while you eat breakfast and eat with you!!! So cool. Anyway here are some photos of us loving on some big spotted snuggle bugs.

June 12-20th

I have been pretty busy the last week so here is the run down ( I have some catching up to do):

Last Thursday I went with my boss Carol to Eastleigh which borders another major slum in Nairobi. We visited the youth center that she used to work at to compare it to CFK. It was very different from Kibera and reminded me more of New York projects. There were large murals on the walls, a pool table, gym, cyber center, and counseling center. Most of the facility was run down and when Carol asked about it they replied that funding had been weak the last few years and they just didn’t have the money to keep up there projects. So the ran a few, and put the others on the back burner.

Then Friday was a Braintrust meeting where directors of women’s orgs in Nairobi come together to learn from one another and discuss difficulties and successes. We talked about how to create good group dynamics among girls, how to facilitate teamwork, how to encourage talent, and several other side discussions. It was really wonderful to see such smart and talented female leaders coming together to improve the lives of girls all over Nairobi in different ways.

Saturday was my first Nubian wedding (to have its own post!)

Sunday We had a meeting for the Alumni girls in which we discussed the alumni program (where older girls mentor younger ones in their community). Everyone seemed to have a positive view of the program and wanted to continue mentoring. I really really think that mentoring is a priceless skill that creates a ripple effect of positive advice, trust, and guidance in any community, but it is particularly important among Kiberian women and girls. Sunday afternoon Binti had a community forum where the young girls invite their friends and neighbors to see what they have learned. Over 100 kids were crammed into our meeting hall! There were up to 4 kids in a given plastic chair. The Binti girls performed their skits and poems and also gave two lectures: one on banking, the other on sexuality. At the very end the crowd was begging to girls to perform one of their dances again. They ended up performing it 3 or 4 times. It turned into a dance off, and let me tell you, those girls can shake it. They move their hips like I have never seen! I eventually got dared by one of the Alumni girls to join in the dance off, handed her my fanta and jacket and the crowd pushed me to the front. When I started dancing all the little girls screamed! I looked like an idiot (and definitely did some grapevine) but they laughed and screamed so much it was totally worth it. Needless to say, I didn’t win the dance off :)

Sunday night, Blair and I treated ourselves to a local Italian restaurant and let me tell you, it was a piece of Heavan. African food is really good, but it was nice to have a taste of home (not that I am from italy or anything). We split a greek salad, ordered spinach and ricotta ravioli, both had two glasses of red wine, and split a tiramisu! The prices were fair, but it still added up to a pretty penny! Totally worth it though, Blair and I were giggling the whole time (mostly at the though of cheese, because there isn’t much in Kenya). We had a lovely time, and it was the most romantic dinner I have had with a woman in a while :)

Monday two professors from UNC came to visit CFK. They were both very pleasant and seemed engaged in CFK’s mission. I picked them up from their hotel with James, and we talked for about 30mins on the way to Kibera. Then were introduced them to the staff and sat down to talk more about what CFK does. They asked a lot of questions about our experiences as volunteers, which really forced us to solidify our feelings and thoughts and express them clearly. Having to talk about Kibera and describe how we have related to the community and what we have learned really helped me understand what I am actually doing and learning. It was refreshing. After the meeting we walked through Kibera which is always fun.

Tuesday Blair and I went to the post office to pick up some packages we had received (thanks to Gage and Walter!). Downtown Nairobi is far from glamorous; it is smoggy, people a pushy, and there is very little to look at other than plain buildings. Anyway, we trotted around downtown to get to the customs office to pick up our packages. When we got their, we got our packages and had to wait in line to have them inspected. The inspection was someone opening your personal items and filtering thought them to see if there is anything they can tax you on. After postal service in the US this felt like such an invasion of privacy! We had to wait in 3 or four more lines before we were allowed to leave. After an hour and a half, Blair and I were happy to have our boxes and left. We were so exhausted we went home and fell asleep!

Weds was our day off and we went to the giraffe center!!!!!!!! (to have its own post)

Saturday I went to another braintrust meeting, where there was facilitation for the girl group representatives on courtship and marriage. It was interesting, but several thing the (male) facilitator said I didn’t agree with. Much of courtship and marriage is ‘man-centered’ here; i.e. how to please a man, how to open up to a man, how to keep him interested etc. For anyone who knows me, this of course drove me crazy. There was also no room for homosexuality in any of the discussion. However, I understood that there were cultural differences, and so I sat and listened and took detailed notes about my secret frustrations:)

In the afternoon at Binti, I held my anonymous question and answer session. I told the girls to write questions for me about my experiences, sexuality, reproductive health etc. The girls wrote questions for me on small pieces of paper and put them in a bag and I answered them one by one aloud. I got a bunch of questions about if I was married, how many kids I had, where I was from, what my family was like, what was rape, what was homosexuality etc. It was fun and hopefully made them feel more comfortable asking me questions.

Phew that was a long one! I’ll try to stay on top of it more! Love you and miss you all! Email me a picture of what you are doing if you can! Ake6950@gmail.com

Alisa

Dinner at Cantar's and community clean up

Last Friday Cantar ( the program officer for the Sports program) and his family graciously invited us to 'cooking lessons' and dinner at their house in Kibera. On the menu was Pilau; a wonderful mix of rice, potatoes, cardemon, cinnamon, cumin, black pepper, onions, garlic, ginger, meat, and sweet lovin. We learned from step one of sorting through the rice grains looking for small stones (see picture). Umi, Cantar's little girl graciously helped us and was honestly better at it than we were. Everything was sauteed and cooked in a metal bowl atop a small charcoal 'jicho' which is kinda like a camping stove. We also helped Umi with her homework, which was writing the letter 'E' over and over again (remember doing that?). She could very well be the cutest and least shy little girl I have met thus far. She talked to us in kiswahili and we would talk right back in English; but we had a great time and for the most part understood each other. Cantar's wife, Zubeta, is an incredible cook (as well as being beautiful, smart, funny, and very hospitable) and we all were full to the brim after dinner. We had strong tea, and barely made it home before we fell asleep. I am convinced Pilau could double as anti-anxiety or sleeping potion. It was really neat to see Kibera at night and to spend some time in Cantar's home. We are lucky enough to to be invited to their house for every Thursday the rest of the summer :)

Saturday morning after one of the best sleeps yet, I woke up early to go to the community clean up hosted by the sports association. Each soccer team gets points for showing up to community clean-ups and those points help them win the championship, which is pretty motivating for the youth. There were at least 100 people there and piles of rakes, shovels, garbage bags, gloves, and jerseys. We rallied the troops and walked into Makina, one of the villages in Kibera. At first I thought that shovels and rakes didn't seem like very effective clean-up tools because any clean up I have been to has gloves and maybe a pincher claw thing to grab garbage. But I soon realized that the only way to manipulate the clogged sewage trenches was shoveling and raking them into the streets to be shoveled into plastic bags. I'd be lying if I said it wasn't gross, or that the smell of stirred up waste (human and otherwise) was not enough to make you gag. However, much of the community vocalized their thanks to the youth and we made a visible difference. Unfortunately, without government regulated trash collection or garbage facilities, the community literally has no where to dump waste other than the street in front of their compound (or maybe their neighbors).

After the clean up was finished we sat on a hill waiting for attendance to be recorded. A little girl came up to me and just starred without inhibition. I laughed, picked her up and put her on my lap. She just sat there happy as a clam until her sister called her saying it was time to go. I can only imagine what someone might have said to me if I picked up their kid in the states and put her/him on my lap! The kids here are really independent and walk around Kibera to and from school without any adult escorts. Everyone holds hands with everyone (including little boys with other boys) and watches out for one another. It's fun to see and surprising how well it works.

I love you and miss you all. Email me when you can!

much love

Alisa

Meetings, reggae, and YAYA market

I met with my Program director (Caroline) to discuss what specifically I am doing this summer. I have several ideas, which are flexible and I will try to implement which ever ones are most desired by the girls:

1. Revamp Vagina Monologues with the girls (have girls write their own monologues about current issues in their lives)
2. Try to fund and organize a library containing text books, novels, women's issues etc.
3. Improv dance lessons: to build relation/connection to each other and also to help build confidence in front of others
4. Help with drama rehearsals, give tips/recommendations for improvement.
5. Anonymous question and answer session about sexuality/bodies/reproduction/ or me and my experiences

Looking forward to all these things and whatever else comes up as important/needed or wanted by the binti girls.


Last week Blair and I traveled around Kibera with Ben to see other medical clinics in Kibera that we sometimes refer patients to. Kibera is huge and every time I walk through it I see something new. I am trying to learn Kiswahili (which people speak in addition to several others) and it is going pretty well so far! It's amazing how "Mambo? Poa." (How's it going? cool.) can take you so far! It's a really fun language.

On Saturday I went with a couple of the older Binti girls to a Braintrust meeting, which is a division of Binti Pamjoa where we meet with girls that represent several other women's groups across Nairobi and the surrounding area. On the way to the meeting space I traveled by matatu (small crazy bus) with one of the Binti girls. I fell in love with matatus that day because on our ride there was a rocking remix of amazing grace blaring so loud you couldn't hear the person next to you. I laughed most of the ride, and luckily no one noticed because the music was so loud :)
When we arrived at the high school, all of the students we out on balconies of the 7 story building. I was the only mzungu around and I think they must have stared at me for about 15 solid minutes. I felt like and exotic animal and haven't felt that self conscious in a while! It's amazing what 7 stories of shameless school kids staring at you can do:) Funny, nonetheless.

It was wonderful to be in an intimate setting with a small group of girls (about 18). The program is pretty brilliant because it spreads knowledge about a given topic to these girls which in turn return to their organizations and continue the education. It seems to be very effective. One of the girls I met was particularly impressive. She told me when her older sister got pregnant and dropped out of school she decided as the second born, she wanted to be a positive, successful role model for her siblings. She received several marriage proposals after primary school, but (which the support of a very forward thinking mother) refused them and took a year off to save money to attend high school. She now has finished high school and is hoping to attend college for Mass Communication. She continues to mentor her younger siblings and encourages them to strive for the best and achieve their dreams despite social pressure to marry young. Hell ya.

After the meeting we went to a reggae concert in an outdoor venue. There were two stages, one with traditional African music and dancing and another with African Hip hop and young artists. Both were awesome. Petit, one of the binti girls, was full of energy and dance moves and we went back and forth between the stages dancing, jumping around and having a great time! At one point at the traditional stage one of the little girls and I faced each other in a dance off: swings our arms up and down and grooving for as long as we could stand it. She of course won the dance off, and I nearly fell over myself with dizziness and laughter.

Sunday was the masai market at YAYA which is walking distance from our house. Blair Yaniv and I all went early in the morning. Vendors have goods sprawled out all over the parking lot of a shopping center, which you weave through to see. Being mzungus, we got harassed like no tomorrow. We had to do some serious bargaining and convince folks of the following:
1. we aren't actually rich
2. we work in Kibera (the slum)
3. we can speak some swahili
4. and we aren't suckers.

Not as easy as it sounds. But we had fun, made some friends, and got a few good deals.

Afterwards, I went to Kibera to the Alumni girls meeting, all of whom have small groups of younger girls across Kibera that the educate and mentor. We talked about challenges and successes and possible solutions. One of the biggest challenges was attendance for a variety of reasons including overlap with school activities and parental restrictions among others.

Oh and one last little thing. I was walking through Kibera and a little boy (maybe age six) said 'how are you?' like they always do and reached out for a hand slap. I slapped his hand, but he didn't let go, and we walked down the street, hand in hand, without saying anything else. Then we went our separate ways and said bye like we had always known each other. Neat kid, I think if we all held hands with strangers the world would be a better place.

much love.

alisa

Tabitha Clinic A and B

Habari zenu!

Tuesday morning we had our first staff meeting, which helped me understand much more about what each of the programs and program officers were doing within CFK. After the meeting we ventured into Kibera to explore Tabitha Clinic A and B, both of which are free clinics set up by CFK. I was astounded in every way I know how to define the word. We visited clinic A first which is tucked into Soweto West, one of the villages in Kibera. A narrow pathway off the main road led us to a cement hall with open rooms off to one side and benches with waiting patients on the other. The first room on our right had benches lining the walls, full of patients waiting to have their medical history taken. The next room is what I would call a triage room, where patients present their symptoms to a medical professional and are then categorized by numbers which indicate the severity of their condition. Then they are called in order to one of the two doctors. The room had a small desk with a computer, and a simple bed with a white curtain around it. There is a small pharmacy (chemist) with a variety of drugs on an open shelf. The patient is separate from the pharmacist and the drugs by chicken fence and a wood door. There is a small refrigerator to keep medicines that need refrigeration. There is also a lab, which has one microscope, several samples, lots of paperwork and a sign on the door indicating prices of having labs processed:

Pregnancy test- 50 shillings (almost a dollar)
Urinalysis- 35 shillings
Stool analysis- 35 shillings
HIV test- 35 shillings

and a few more. If patients can't afford the small fee (which many cannot), they get there labs anyway. There is one final room where the doctors can get tea and where all the patient records are held (in paper form of course). The doctors often don't have time for lunch breaks, so they grab tea and keep seeing patients. There is very little privacy, almost all the rooms are open to the hallway. The HIPPA folks in the US would be pulling their hair out.

Tabitha B is about half a kilometer away. It is nearly the same, but there are rooms on both sides of the hall and there is no lab or refrigerator.

Child birth is all done in the home, no doctors, no drugs. There is one GYN doctor, who is a woman, but regular gyn care is not standard. All of the doctors are Kenyan (yay!).

Very interesting, I am hoping to meet with the director of the clinics in the next few days because seeing them has absolutely taken me. I have so many questions.

I am back at the office this morning, and we are about to take an extensive walk through Kibera. More soon, much love.

Alisa

Monkey pictures

Pictures are worth a thousand words. Incredible! The monkeys were amazing, it was like an American park (grass, pond, benches, etc) except for there were about 30 monkeys roaming around free. We bought some groundnuts and corn and monkeys came from all directions! Climbing our shoulders and heads, jumping to grab food, and catching mid air if we tossed something to them. Incredible. You could sit down and hold out groundnuts and immediately there would be a crowd of monkey company. There was even a couple moms with the baby tighty holding their underside. If you weren't careful, the monkeys would sneak attack and grab the whole bag of groundnuts from you hand and jet away before you can do a thing. We were suckers and it happen a few times. We had a blast.

Market, self-esteem and more

Yesterday the volunteers, two CFK administrators (Cantar and Ben) and I all went through the Toi market. We met at 11am and started at the top of the market and weaved our way through. There were hundreds and hundreds of booths selling mostly used clothes, bed sheets, shoes, and fruit. Apparently many of these items are leftovers from the US goodwill donations that get shipped out here. It was probably about one square mile of market. It was hard to look at everything because the dirt walkways are riddled with mud, garbage and big rocks so you can constantly looking up and down trying not to fall down but also trying to see the booths. Haha, it is a workout! Once we made it through, we stopped a little hole in the wall Kenyan restaurant. We ate beans (ndondo), chapati (tortilla-ish), and fresh avocado. Delicious! Then we walked about a mile to a primary school where some of our CFK boys were having a soccer tournament. Many of the boys played barefoot because they don't own cleats, it sure didn't slow then down though! After the game, I walked back with Ben and Blair down the railroad tracks toward CFK. We got a fantastic view of Kibera and beyond that I will take a picture of soon. (The railroad cuts through all of Kibera). Ben said that during the violence, people had put dynamite under the tracks and blown it up. It has just been reconstructed. Sure enough we peered over the edge of the walkway and say a rusted destroyed railing. We eventually got back to CFK and broke into small groups with the Binti girls and talked about self-esteem. What is self esteem? What are the advantages of self esteem? Do you have self-esteem? Are you proud of who you are? Many of the girls said self-esteem helped them make good choices, respect themselves, follow their values, say no when they mean no, etc. One of the leaders asked the girls who had their menses. A few scattered hands hesitantly were raised, followed by a few more. The leader then asked why they were embarrassed about a natural thing that made them women? She said we must be proud of our womanhood, and not be embarrassed of something that half the population experiences. Good advice I think.

After the small group discussions, I watched the girls rehearse their skits again, then we went home. Blair and I came home to a wonderful Kenyan meal; ugali (boiled water and flour which forms a dense cake like starch) some sort of boiled greens, and beef with tomatoes/onions/spices. I tried some of the sauce from the meat which was delicious. Eventually I'll tell Jane I am vegetarian, but I don't want to be picky. We squished the ugali in our hands and flattened a small ball so we could pinch some greens with it and eat it together. YUM. The power was out so we ate by candlelight. After dinner blair and I made coffee improv style. The coffee maker didn't work so we boiled water, added coffee grinds and poured it through a hand held coffee filter into our cups. It was messy, but tasted good. Then we went to our room and watched "Something's gotta give" on my laptop. A few ginger snaps later we fell asleep.

Blair, Yaniv and I woke up this morning at met at Java, which is a local restaurant with wireless internet. We treated ourselves to banana pancakes, french toast, and fish and chips (Yaniv doesn't like b-fast food!). I am still here at Java, but at 2:00 James (our FAVORITE taxi driver) is taking us to a monkey park. We have our cameras and I will post pictures soon! James said last time he went the monkeys jumped in the car, took all their fruit, and then jumped out and ate it right in from of them. Haha, I can't wait.

much love.

The beginning

Jambo! Hope you are all well. Things are off to a good start here. We arrived late Weds. night and the airplane lost 6 of our bags (3 of which were soccer equipment for CFK). We got 4 of them back yesterday and a still waiting on the last two. On thurs we rested and visited nearby internet cafes. Later in the afternoon we went into Kibera for the first time. It is incredible to say the least. It is crammed full of shacks built out of sheet metal, like on an airplane hanger. Many of them are rusted and worn, but a noticeable percentage are made of brand new metal. These are the homes and shops that were burnt down during January's election violence. In between the shacks are dirt walkways which are lined with trenches of sewage, old shoes, animals, and garbage. The people are friendly, but surprised that 'mzungus' (white folks) are in this part of town. When we walk past children they yell 'mzungu! mzungu!' and then reach out their tiny hands to touch you. The more shy kids will just stare with a wide grin and turn their heads as you pass. To me, Kibera is best represented by one word: lively. Everywhere there is laughter, random animals (like goats and baby chicks), music, and foot traffic. Kenyans greet Kenyans (and us) with a simple hand slap (maybe a mix between high fivin and a hand shake!).

I am staying with another volunteer with a woman named Jane. We practically live in a fortress of gates, padlocks, and bars so no need to worry about me; I am very safe. Blair and I are still getting adjusted to the time change, one night we both woke up wide away at 2 in the morning. We giggled, made peanut butter and jam sandwiches and told each other stories about home. Blair and Yaniv ( the other two summer volunteers) are wonderful, we all get along really well. We are hoping to go on a safari, see the coast (Mbosa), and spend some time in downtown Nairobi. In the meanwhile we spend the early evening hanging out at Adam's Arcade or Nakumatt which have free wireless internet, food, and coffee.

I met the Binti Pamoja girls for the first time today. Lucky for me, today was a field trip! Wahoo! We all squished into a bus (at least 3 or 4 girls to a bench) and traveled across town to another girls school. The whole bus ride there the girls sang at the top of their lungs. There were no breaks between songs, someone would just decided to change the song and sing it loudly until everyone caught on and switched. We toured the school, played games, and the girls performed some of their poems and skits. The performances were great; one was about rape, another:HIV-Aids, another: the African Child. The games were also lots of fun, although it was all conducted in kiswahili so I often found myself copying the girls and just skipping with them. My favorite game was Mingle; where the leader yells "mingle, mingle" and then all the girls yell "MINGLE" which continues as we walk amongst each other. Then the leader yells "back to back" or "elbow to elbow" etc and all the girls frantically find someone to connect to. My personal favorite was "nose to nose" when all the girls shrieked with laughter and a young girl ran up to me, closed her eyes, and stuck her nose high in the air. I, of course, bent over and touched my nose to hers, while everyone laughed.

Throughout the day the girls would try to sneak a touch of my hair, which was in a low ponytail. they tried to do it so I wouldn't notice, and when I turned around they would pretend nothing had happened. Finally on the bus ride home, this happened again with the girl who I did "nose to nose" with and I just took down my hair and let her play with it. Soon enough, everyone within reach ran their fingers through my mzungu hair. we all laughed. hard.

It has been good. I miss you all. please email me when you can.

Alisa

prep

Hello friends and family! I am setting up this blog to keep you all in touch with my experiences in Kibera, Kenya this summer. I leave May 20th and will return August 5th. Check back soon!

I am working with Carolina for Kibera in the Binti Pamoja program.

http://carolinaforkibera.com/